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When curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.